Marveling at the Magnificence of Yehliu’s Geological Formations

Keelung to Yehliu Geopark

With its endless stream of motorbikes, food stalls lining the main streets, and constant rush and bustle of pedestrian traffic, Keelung is full of a kinetic energy that seems to dispel the notion that it is merely an old port town or a rainy city. I found the vibrant commotion of Keelung to be exhilarating, as there was always an experience to be had on any of the city’s main arteries.

But it could also veer towards sensory overload. Luckily, Keelung itself offers many quiet streets just off the main commercial roads. For the more adventurous, though, there are several excursions that take no longer than an hour on public transport from the city center that offer not only respite from the busy city, but a chance to reflect on the deeper history to the island of Taiwan and marvel at the grandeur of the earth’s geology

Slightly to the north of Keelung, the Yehliu Promontory juts out into the East China Sea. It was likely formed as the result of plate tectonic shifts which pushed the Datun Volcano up to its current height and left this narrow strip of land exposed to the harsh elements of wind and sea. Over millennia, erosion worked away at the sedimentary rock layer, leaving behind marvels of geological time.

Transportation Info:
From Keelung, take bus 790. The bus stop is near Keelung Chenghuang Temple.
Ticket: NT$30 (approx.)

Morel Season All Year: Yehliu Geopark

Perhaps the most distinctive features of Yehliu Geopark are its dozens of mushroom rocks that all seem to have sprouted up overnight on the rocky peninsula; however, the appearance of these rock formations has been thousands of years in the making. The base of these sedimentary rocks have a smooth lighter appearance, while their brown “heads” have been formed into honeycomb patterns, making a great many of them look like morel mushrooms.

While the wind and water erosion tends to naturally form roundish shapes, the heads of the mushroom become susceptible to heavy winds and earthquakes, and portions of rock fall away. This has given way to many of the more famous features of Yehliu, including the heart-shaped rock and the pigeon hawk rock.

The Queen’s Head rock

But the most famous is surely the Queen’s Head rock, the crown jewel of Yehliu. According to the Geopark, sometime in the early 1960s, portions of the honeycomb head fell off, resulting in the rock formations human-like profile, reminding many of portraits of Queen Elizabeth at the time. Like all of the geological features in Yehliu, the Queen’s Head is still subject to the same elements of wind and water that shaped it, and the distinct features that make the rock resemble a woman’s profile will also eventually wear away.

More than just mushroom rocks

Mushroom rocks are just the start of Yehliu’s geological treasures. On the surface of the rocky outcrop, you can find a variety of shapes and figures. Many potholes were formed by whirling pebbles wearing away at the stone. On the northern shore, one can find a long narrow grid that looks like sliced squares of tofu, caused by the water erosion. There are also sea caves, interesting weathering patterns from rust staining, and several fossils, most notably sand dollars.

The Flora and Fauna of Yehliu

Beyond the sheet of rock that makes up the 1,700-meter-long promontory, the elevation rises and the terrain gives way to verdant hilltop filled with some of Taiwan’s iconic flora and fauna. A walking path leads out to an observation deck at the end of the peninsula. On the hot day I was there, few people ventured out further than Yehliu’s main attractions near the geopark’s entrance. It allowed me to take in a quiet walk in the shade as I took my time observing the flowers and birds I encountered along the way.  On the way back, I climbed up to the highpoint of the peninsula to see Yehliu’s lighthouse up close.

Along my walk, I also found sea hibiscus in bloom, as well as a variety of melastoma. I was able to catch Chinese bulbuls and common kestrels flitting about the tree canopy. It’s also possible to spot egrets, wagtails, sandpipers, and kingfishers according to the geopark.

Fun for the whole family

3-D Technology & Iconic formations

For me, the trip to Yehliu Geopark was a chance to contemplate Taiwan’s past on a geological scale and appreciate the scale at which the earth is formed and is changed. The unique formations can feel timeless, but already the geopark’s stewards are wary of losing some of the most distinctive attractions in the park. To this end, there is a Replica Replication Area that allows visitors to view a preserved time capsule that replicated several of the most iconic formations on the peninsula. Using laser-scanning technology, 3-D replicas were created in 2009 of the Queen’s Head, the Cute Princess Rock, and even the Leopard Rock, which has since been washed away beyond recognition.

Touch and play around facsimiles

While the geopark offers many chances to reflect on the fleeting impertinence of nature, it’s also a great place for families. The replica park allows children a chance to touch and play around facsimiles of these impressive formations. As the geopark boasts so many unique shapes, wandering around the rocky shore can be something of a scavenger hunt for families. In addition to the ones already mentioned, there is a gorilla, dragon head, fairy’s slipper, and more to find.

Additionally, during the summer season, Yehliu Geopark opens after sunset by reservation only. The rock formations are dramatically lit and, weather permitting, there is a nightly drone light show.

A taste of the local delicacies from Guihou Fishing Harbor

After finishing my tour of Yehliu, I meandered through the alleyways and streets of Guihou Fishing Harbor just outside the park. There are several temples to admire that look out into the harbor. Fishmen come and go with their crab traps and tackle.

The area is known for its Wanli crabs. Just outside the park, several seafood restaurants line the street, all of their hosts eager to lift up a crab out of their tanks and offer it to passersby. Taking a side street, I was able to find a slightly cheaper restaurant, where I ordered a freshly boiled crab with eggs and peppers—the perfect finish to my day trip.

Yehliu Geopark is just one of many short trips one can take to find themselves immersed in nature to marvel at its incredible scope and power. It’s a nice compliment to Keelung’s own Heping Dao, or Peace Island.

Just off the coast of Keelung’s main harbor, the island offers its own Geopark, as well a fish market, and walks through the island’s lush hilltops with views of the abandoned Sheliao East Fort. Keelung for a Walk offers immersive tours of the island as well.