Ren Ai Market Keelung
Keelung may be best known for the Miao Kou Night Market, but not visiting the massive Ren Ai Market (仁愛市場) as well would be a huge miss! Located conveniently downtown, Ren Ai Market is one of the centers of food and commerce in Keelung city.
Think Department Store of Keelung – this place is a gold mine for traditional foods and Keelung specialties, and as well as daily shopping for locals. The floors are set up in a way to make shopping and socializing a seamless experience for Keelung locals: after purchasing their groceries for the day on the first floor, people will venture up to the second floor to run errands, enjoy lunch, and relax. They might drop off a sweater to be mended, grab a refreshing drink, and then get their hair cut in one of the many ‘back alley’ salons.
This place will challenge your Mandarin skills and help you explore local spots for food. Most stall owners are patient and willing to explain the menu or give recommendations, as long as they are not super busy during the peak hours. General etiquette is to order and pay first, then sit down and wait to be served.
This is the go-to place for lunch for Keelung-ers, so if you are looking to do as the locals do and eat as the locals eat, be sure to stop by Ren Ai Market during the day time during your visit to the city. You’ll barely be able to scratch the surface of the food offerings in one visit, but here are some must-visit spots below.
Short on time? Here’s the quick visitor guide to Ren Ai Market.
Planning Your Visit
The market is split into two buildings with two floors each. There is a convenient map showing where each stall is located in sections A through D, though the market can be quite confusing to navigate.
First Floor: Fresh Produce & Groceries
Produce, Fruit, Pastries, Butcher and Fish shops, Prepared foods (fish balls, tofu, fermented products, dried foods, etc)
Second Floor: Dining & Daily Life Hub
The main attraction! Restaurants, Hair Salons, Nail Salons, Tailor and Clothing shops, Coffee shops, and more Restaurants. Ren Ai Market is best for seafood and sushi, traditional Taiwanese eats, and other specialty shops. Here are a few recommendations for what to eat for lunch at Ren Ai Market. There are limited vegetarian selections at the restaurants below; refer to the vegetarian section for more options.
Seafood, Sushi, and Japanese Food Stalls
1. Ying Wo Sushi 櫻握壽司
Location: Stall A21 • Google Map
Price Point: $$
Come for: Fresh Sushi and Sashimi. The fish here is super decadent and at a decent price point. Sushi and Sashimi often paired with either Fish Soup or Miso Soup. To queue, etiquette here is to get a number first from the owner, then when you are called you’ll put your order in and find a seat. Pay at the end when you’ve finished your meal.
2. Eel Rice 鳗胖子
Location: Stall A8 • Google Map
Hours: Closed on Wednesdays
Price Point: $$
Come for: Japanese eel rice and your choice of sushi. The eel rice is the signature dish, and comes in half or full portions, and original and sauced flavors. The rice is super flavorful and chewy, deliciously balanced with the tender eel!
Order and pay first, then sit and wait to be served.
3. SanYue Sushi 三越壽司
Location: Stall B49 • Google Map
Hours: Closed on Mondays
Price Point: $$
Come for: Flower Sushi and Tofu Skin Sushi. The Flower Sushi includes 5 different kinds of rolls, with two pieces each. The Flower Sushi is non vegetarian, but the Tofu Skin Sushi is a great alternative and similarly delicious.
The Flower Sushi is an extremely popular item and sells out within the first 5-10 minutes! Only available at 10:10am, 12:10pm, and 2:10pm. Regulars will pre-order and reserve their rolls in advance.
Traditional Taiwanese Eats
1. A-Jiao Noodles 阿嬌炒麵
Location: Stall B22 • Google Map
Price Point: $
Come for: Curry Noodles. This is a Keelung local specialty, traditionally made for port/harbor workers looking to eat something warm and filling. Choose from a variety of toppings for your noodles, and ask for curry on top. There are also soup and rice choices available.
2. DaGuanYuan Salty Glutinous Rice Balls and Pork Liver Sausage 鹹湯圓豬肝腸 (大觀圓)
Location: First Floor, on Ren 4th Rd streetside • Google Map
Price Point: $
Come for: Salty Glutinous Rice Balls and Pork Liver Sausage. They’ve only got two items on the menu! While tangyuan (the rice balls) typically have sweet fillings in other parts of Asia, the traditional Taiwanese version is filled with pork and vegetables. For innards lovers, the pork liver sausage is a great balanced bite between tangyuan.
3. LinJia SanXian Dumplings 林家三鲜水餃
Location: Stall A29 • Google Map
Price Point: $$
Come for: Seafood dumplings – they include pork, celery, and chopped up shrimp. The wrappers are a bit thick, but the dumplings are delicious nonetheless. Minimum order is 8 pieces, and each dumpling goes for NTD$8. Try it with the chili sauce for a kick. Dumplings are made fresh on site.
Coffee Shops
Keelung has the highest concentration of coffee shops in Taiwan, and Ren Ai Market has the highest concentration of coffee shops in Keelung! Coffee here is brewed in the traditional siphon (虹吸) method, and they make a truly mean cup of joe.
Try Zhao Ka 找咖 (C67) for a quick stop or Anygood Coffee 多好咖啡店 (B31) for a quieter ambiance. For those feeling adventurous, you can also try the Grapefruit or Kumquat Coffee that are popular options.
Western Foods
Craving a taste of home? Ren Ai Market has a surprising amount of Western food stalls if you’re looking for more familiar flavors.
1. WangDing Steaks 王鼎牛排
Location: Stall D62 • Google Map
Price Point: $$$
Come for: The fillet mignon is expensive, but well worth the value. Mains include beef steaks, chicken cutlets, seafood, and pork chops, and are served with several side dishes. Great for visitors who are particularly hungry.
Watch outs: Sometimes sold out at lunch, so may need to return for dinner service instead.
2. OLA小酒館
Location: Stall B47 • Google Map
Price Point: $$$
Come for: Tapas style stall, serving alcoholic drinks with charcuterie items and bread. Great for European visitors who want a taste of home, or want a drink with lunch.
Watch outs: Limited seating
3. YanSen Cocktail Bar 炎森飲食
Location: Stall C40 • Google Map
Price Point: $$$
Come for: This is a specialty tea-infusion cocktail bar hidden in the bustling traditional Ren Ai Market. The owner is super helpful and knowledgeable, and will help mix you something depending on what you want. Alcoholic and non-alcoholic, hot and cold, tea and coffee all available. The mung bean shake is a personal favorite.
Dessert
1. Egg Cakes 雞蛋糕
Location: Stall B20 • Google Map
Price Point: $$
Come for: Egg cakes. Fluffy on the inside and crunchy on the outside, these are the perfect way to wrap up a meal with a sweet treat. Personal favorites include the dark chocolate and double cheese. One order comes with 5 cakes.
Watch outs: A little bit pricier compared to stalls outside of Ren Ai Market.
2. Hong Jia Tofu Pudding 洪佳豆花
Location: Stall A64, right across from Ying Wo Sushi. • Google Map
Price Point: $
Come for: Traditional tofu pudding. They offer several options for your base dessert – traditional tofu pudding, soy milk with tofu pudding, herbal jelly, or sweet soup – as well as all your classic options for toppings – peanuts, boba, taro balls, azuki beans, mung beans, etc. Offered in both cold and hot, and the perfect bite of something sweet to wrap up your meal.
Vegetarian and Vegan Options
Taiwan is well known for its vegetarian food, and Ren Ai Market is no exception. There are several spots offering 素食 sù shí. Typically, food comes in a bento box style offering where you can choose 2 or 3 dishes to go with rice, or dishes are purchased by weight. Tofu is cooked every way imaginable with different vegetables, sauces, and toppings, and paired with pickles and side dishes.
A few popular stalls include Mei Feng Vegetarian Food 美鳳素食, Ru Yi Qin Cai Vegetarian Food 如意青菜煮素食, and Ai Er Road Vegetarian Food 愛二路素食.
How To Get There and Nearby Spots
Getting there: Address No. 21號, Aisan Rd, Ren’ai District, Keelung City, 200
Entrances: Ren Ai Market spans a whole city block, with entrances on each corner and on each street.
Nearby Spots:5 minute walk from Miao Kou Night Market; 10 minute walk from Keelung Train Station
Driving: The BoAi Underground Parking Lot is available and right under the building.
Ren Ai Market FAQs
Peak is during lunch hour (~10am to 2pm), when restaurants are open.
The market is open every day 8am-5pm, but slows down heavily in the afternoon.
It does get crowded, so if you want more time to ask questions and look around, I recommend arriving before the noon rush at around 10:30-11am, and avoiding weekends. Note that most stalls are closed on Mondays.
If you are just planning to walk through, 45 minutes is enough to see the whole building. If you have the time to stop by for lunch (highly recommended!) I would budget about 1.5 hours.
Address: No. 21, Aisan Rd, Ren’ai District, Keelung City, 200. The market is a 5-minute walk from Miao Kou Night Market and 10 minutes from Keelung Train Station. For drivers, the BoAi Underground Parking Lot is available directly under the building.
Best for visitors, foodies, and tourists who want to see an authentic Keelung. The market can get quite busy, especially on the weekends, so it is not recommended for families with lots of young children, or visitors carrying excessively bulky baggage.
There are two escalators in the building; otherwise, stairs are available. The building also has air conditioning in the summer for those looking for reprieve from the heat.
Combine a visit to Ren Ai Market with a walk around downtown Keelung, stopping by Keelung Harbor and the Maritime Plaza (8 minute walk), Qing-An Temple (3 minute walk), Fude Temple (2 minute walk), Dianji Temple (3 minute walk), Mingde Building 明德大楼 (1 minute walk), or the Miao Kou Night Market (5 minute walk).
If you have time to stick around at night, Kanziding Fish Market (崁仔頂漁市) from 11pm-5am is an absolute must see in Keelung, and happens right across the street!
Sign up for our exclusive Fish Market tour that brings you through the busy street and reveals how locals purchase their catch.
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